When the tents are packed away and the summer crowds have gone home, Pembrokeshire reveals a quieter, wilder side of itself. The beaches are empty, the air is crisp, and the coastline feels timeless — a place where you can still find beauty in every gust of sea breeze.
Although Rhosson Ganol Campsite closes for winter, the magic of Pembrokeshire doesn’t stop at the gate. The colder months are perfect for a peaceful escape — whether you fancy a bracing walk along the coastal path, a warming lunch in a village pub, or simply watching the sun set over St Davids Head.
Here’s a local’s guide to the best ways to enjoy Pembrokeshire during the off-season.
Explore the Coastal Path in Peace
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path takes on a different kind of charm in winter. The light is softer, the waves more dramatic, and you’re far more likely to have a whole stretch of it to yourself.
A favourite local section runs from St Justinian’s to Whitesands Bay, where you can look back across the headland to see Rhosson Ganol’s fields rolling down to the sea. Another stunning route is Solva to Newgale, a slightly longer walk with high clifftop views and a good pub waiting at either end.
Just remember sturdy boots and a flask of something hot — the wind can bite, but the views more than make up for it.
Warm Up in a Cosy Café or Pub
After a windswept walk, there’s nothing better than stepping inside a warm, welcoming spot for food and a drink. Thankfully, plenty of local cafés and pubs stay open year-round.
- The Bishops, St Davids – A classic pub near the cathedral, perfect for local ales and hearty food after a blustery beach walk.
- The Really Wild Emporium, St Davids – A sustainable café and shop that celebrates local produce; try their winter soups or homemade cakes.
- Harbour Inn, Solva – Cosy fireside tables with a view of the estuary, especially atmospheric at high tide on a stormy day.
- Oriel y Parc Café, St Davids – Ideal for coffee and a slice of cake after exploring the cathedral or the nearby art gallery.
Supporting local businesses during the quieter months keeps the community thriving — and you’ll often find that locals have more time to chat and share their own favourite places.
Scenic Drives and Secret Spots
If you’d rather stay warm, Pembrokeshire’s scenic drives offer spectacular winter scenery without the chill.
Take the coastal road from St Davids to Abercastle, winding past hidden coves, stone cottages, and windswept headlands. Or head inland towards Castell Henllys to see frost-dusted hills and mist rising from ancient valleys.
Stop at Porthgain, a small harbour village where the winter light bounces off the red brick of the old industrial ruins. Grab fish and chips from The Shed if it’s open, or simply enjoy the silence of the tide rolling in.
Wildlife Watching in Winter
Winter in Pembrokeshire might seem quiet, but it’s full of life if you know where to look.
Seals can often be spotted around Ramsey Sound, especially mothers and pups resting on the rocks through late autumn. On calm days, you might still glimpse dolphins off St Davids Head, or flocks of wading birds along the shoreline.
Bring binoculars, wrap up warm, and head to one of the many viewing points — St Non’s Chapel offers some of the best panoramic sea views in the area.
Chasing Winter Sunsets
Few things compare to a Pembrokeshire sunset in winter. The sun sinks low over the sea, washing the cliffs and clouds in shades of gold, pink, and violet.
Locals will tell you that St Davids Head offers one of the best vantage points. On clear days, you can even see the outline of Ramsey Island silhouetted against the horizon. It’s peaceful, humbling, and utterly breathtaking — even when you need to pull your scarf up to your nose.
Planning Ahead for Spring Camping
Pembrokeshire may rest in winter, but spring always comes quickly. By March, the hedgerows burst back into life, wildflowers scatter across the cliffs, and Rhosson Ganol Campsite opens its gates once again.
If the quiet beauty of winter has left you dreaming of mornings under canvas and evenings watching the sun set over the sea, now is the perfect time to start planning your spring visit.
Come spring, swap the scenic drives for a pitch with a view — and wake up at Rhosson Ganol.
